Posted in Jewelry

I am an old fashioned girl. I love jewelry that seems nostalgic and romantic, and no other type of vintage jewelry seems to fill this bill quite as much as pearl jewelry does. Whether it be genuine pearls, cultured pearls, glass pearls or faux pearls, the care and cleaning of them can be a challenge. If you are not very careful, you will end up with damaged jewelry. But there are steps that you can take to make sure this doesn't happen to you.

Pearl jewelry basically falls into four types – genuine natural pearls, cultivated pearls, glass pearls and faux pearls. Within each group there are subcategories such as seed pearls, baroque pearls, Mabe pearls (blister pearls) and the like, but for our purposes today, we well talk about these four types mentioned above.

Genuine and cultured pearls are formed when a living mollusk makes layers of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. This layering is called nacre and can occur naturally in nature, or they can be man made. In a natural pearl, a parasite invades the mollusk and the mollusk then envelops that body in a pearl sac as a protective measure. Over time the pearl is formed. This happens in the lab too, but in this case, a pearl farmer gives the pearl a "helping hand" by adding freshwater mother of pearl into the mollusk. The procedure then continues as in the case of a natural genuine pearl. Natural genuine pearls are rare. The majority of real pearl jewelry pieces on the market are made from cultured pearls.

Cultured pearls and genuine natural pearls can be quite costly, but there are alternatives for those that can't afford the price tag. Faux pearls are, as the name suggests, "fake" or imitation pearls. They can be made from lucite, or other plastics or from glass. Both forms are used in vintage jewelry, although glass pearls usually are more expensive. These pearls can be made in two ways – filling the interior of a bead, or coating the exterior of it with a substance called "essence d'orient" or pearl powder. The beads are then dipped into various solutions of pearl film. The more layered it is, the more valuable the piece of jewelry will be. (and the more durable.)

All pearls – no matter the type – are much more easily damaged than other types of gemstone jewelry. By nature, the outer coating, whether genuine or faux, will scratch easily and can be damaged upon contact with any sharp objects. While the natural and cultivated pearls are more durable than faux pearls, they must still be stored with care. Keep them away from other jewelry, and store them flat for best results. All pearl jewelry may have the thread material stretch in time, so it may be necessary to have them restrung, especially if they are genuine or cultured pearls. Store pearl jewelry in linen, or silk, or in any type of soft cloth pouches. Do not store in plastic bags. Pearls need some moisture and may crack if the plastic bag is closed and the atmosphere becomes too dry.

As with other types of jewelry, one must be careful wtih make up, perfume, hand creams and any other materials which may stick to pearls. These should be used carefully. when wearing pearl jewelry. Be sure to put on your makeup, creams or perfume before you add your pearls, and take the pearls off before removing these elements too. The best rule to follow with all pearl jewelry is "Last on, first off."

After wearing pearls for the day, just gently wipe them with a lint free soft cloth before putting them away. This will remove any makeup or perfume residue and ensure that they won't need too much cleaning alter. The cloth can either slightly damp or dry, but if you use one with moisture, be sure to air dry the jewelry before storing it.

Do not use ultrasonic cleaners on pearl jewelry. They are far too harsh on such delicate material. Also be very careful of cleaners with ammonia, and abrasive cleaners. Use very warm water and a really mild detergent such as Ivory Flakes. Gently immerse the pearls and swirl them. Don't leave them in the liquid to soak. Do not use anything to rub them, as this can remove the finish. With faux pearls, you must be especially careful. I have found a product called "Jewelry Joose" fairly effective. It comes in a spray bottle and you can direct the spray to just the few pearls that are dirty and then carefully rinse. With faux pearls, if you are not very careful, you will find the coating will completely come away and it will pit very easily from any friction. You can also take your pearls to a jeweler who specializes in cleaning pearl jewelry.

After cleaning your pearls, lay them on an clean soft cloth to dry. You can lightly fold over a layer of the cloth and gently press to dry a little more quickly, but do not rub. Be sure that the pearls are completely dry before putting them away. The cord that pearls are strung on can be damaged if it stays wet in storage.

One question often asked is: "Are my pearls real or fake?" Whole articles have been written about this subject, but there are a few tips which will help you to identify whether you have the real thing. Check the whole where the thread goes through. Real pearls are drilled from both side to meet in the center. If you look inside, you may be able to see the layers of the natural substance. Fake pearls will often have "flaking" at the entry – a sure sign that they are not real. Run your pearls along your teeth. A real pearl will feel slightly gritty and a fake pearl will feel smooth. Also fake pearls will look perfectly matched, whereas real pearls will have very slight notable differences in the finish or shape.

By all means, wear and enjoy your pearl jewelry. With a few common sense tips and gentle care, you will be able to enjoy it for many years to come.

Carol Speake

Ruby Lane Shop: Finishing Touch Vintage Jewelry

http://www.rubylane.com/shops/thefinishingtouchvintagejewelry